Friday, February 27, 2009

I got very defensive in class today for a hot minute. But as the kids say (if you get in a time machine and go back to 1996), I checked myself before I wrecked myself.

After immediately jumping at her with "cómo que no se usa así, está en mi libro de slang mexicano y es muy común y qué diablos me estás diciendo," I stopped arguing, listened, thought about it and realized she was totally right. WHY YES, I do totally overuse "es que" and, yes, I guess it really does carry the connotation of making an excuse for something and, yes, I totally am just using it as a transition (así que) when it should be reserved for excuse-making.

Also, I really do need to stop relying on "un montón." Mucho works just fine. At this level, it's all about diversifying your vocabulary. it's easy to stick with words and phrases that are comfortable and sound colloquial, but it's a trap. Hay que buscar, buscar, buscar.

Thanks, teach.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009


Bella Roma
Originally uploaded by tjdee
This is one of my favorite photos of the trip so far. First, it was taken (today) on another ridiculously gorgeous day here in Mexico City. It's on one of the main streets in Colonia Roma, a neighborhood I wasn't really feeling the first couple of times I wandered through it. But Roma really grabbed me today. I even started debating whether Roma or Condesa would be my preferred 'hood if i were to live here. Roma is sort of like the Lower East Side to Condesa's West Village, but it really is beautiful in areas, with a ton of gorgeous old buildings and interesting cultural institutions (Casa LAMM, the UNAM library building thing, the Centro Gallego and even an old Spanish meetingroom/restaurant where old-timers come to play 'dominó').

This particular spot, on Álvaro Obregón and Orizaba (or thereabouts, si no me equivoco), is fabulous because one of the best ice cream spots in all of D.F. (I tried the avellana/hazelnut and it was ridiculous) is right next to this gym, where, insanely, people dancercise in front of a huge picture window, which happens to have a big old seating area in front of it. So people seriously plop themselves down and hang out for a bit, enjoying the guys' and gals' moves. And it's not like they pretend to read their book or whatever; they sit there and watch.

I was tempted to join them ... with my ice cream. But I opted to take a quick photo from afar and take off for further exploration of this charming neighborhood.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009


Mi Sala
Originally uploaded by tjdee
I am digging my new teacher here at International House. She cracks me up. Today I showed her a video of her boyfriend, Gael García Bernal, singing a cheesy song from his new Mexican movie and she seriously said, "Órale ... óoooorale ... óraleeeeeeee." This was after completing a reading about gender roles in Mexico and saying, "Gracias a Dios, nunca he tenido un novio mexicano y no lo quiero."

So, I've been here for three weeks. I'm definitely feeling more comfortable with certain things -- getting around all of Condesa finally is a breeze (as is Chapultepec, most of Polanco and parts of Roma and the Centro). The Metro is all good, I can deal with laundry, I know to tip everyone for everything. I have regular spots and know where all the nearby free wifi is. But I still feel hopelessly lost sometimes, and I completely misunderstand someone every single day, which is really aggravating. But ... I guess that's fine. I mean, that's the point, sort of.

While I seem to move forward in a certain way, linguistically, every day, like I said, I make some big blunder every day, too. But the way I look at it, the steps forward rank far more heavily than the steps back, since the mistakes or faux pas always lead to some sort of new, beneficial realization. So suck on that, cabrón.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

1. I have an upsetting blister on my left foot that won't go away.

2. There's now a hole in my left shoe and I can't bear the thought of having to learn all the freaking shoe-buying vocabulary and dealing with attendants at shoe stores, which I refuse to deal with in the U.S.

3. I've met as many gay San Franciscans in the two weeks I've been here at the house than I do in the same time period in S.F.

4. Right. So, the goal is to "pass" as a native, or at least as a native Spanish speaker. But sometimes it's better to be obviously gringo from the initial "hola," so you don't feel like such a fool when you're stumped, your cover is blown and you wind up saying "no entiendo" when it turns out the person was simply saying NOVENTA Y SIETE CON CINCUENTA, as in the total price of your purchase. As in a number.

5. I could totally spend a few years living here in Condesa. Relaxing but stimulating. Qué padre.

Saturday, February 14, 2009


Día de San Valentín
Originally uploaded by tjdee
Well, I'm here by myself on Valentine's Day, working 12 hours no less, but despite this, the trip has been great so far. There are frustrating moments, for sure, but overall it's been wonderful -- challenging without being overwhelming.

Balancing classes and work this week has been a bit tough, but that's only really a problem toward the end of the week. Classes in general have been really helpful. Because I was the only advanced student around this week, I had one-on-one time with my teacher, who was able to really home in on my -- gasp -- weaknesses. They're really any advanced-learner's weaknesses: the subjunctive, the conditional and, to a lesser degree, ser vs. estar.

It was definitely a little crazy not having anyone else in the classroom to take the pressure off, but the time has really helped me come to a better understanding about some fundamentals and it also has forced me to become better at making mistakes and moving on without getting too bent out of shape. I'm excited to continue next week and then to switch it up with another teacher for the third and fourth weeks (a great idea of theirs).

As for tomorrow: work, of course, but I think I'm going to make it my pre-Digg Sunday tradition to walk through Condesa to Chapultepec and then meander over to Polanco for some of that ridiculous gelato. No tengan celos, cabrones.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

I may have had a bit of a tomato breakthrough today.

After a couple of hours of wandering through Condesa and Chapultepec Park, I made my way back to an Italian/Argentine café in Polanco and ordered the margerita pizza, expecting the few bits of tomato that usually come in such pizzas. But this thing was cut up into squares, with whole slices of tomato. Fail. Or was it?

I don't know if the tomatoes here are slightly different or if it was how the tomatoes were cooked, but they were totally edible, even tasty (not tangy, but slightly sweet and really soft). Sure, I picked out a little bit, but for the most part I just savored the flavor of this super tasty pizza. Qué locura.

I then headed toward Alto Tango, which has probably the best gelato I've ever had. And free wifi. Heaven.

Overall, the food here has been pretty good. Amazing french toast at El Péndulo. Cheap, fresh fruit juice everywhere. A great combination of quick, cheap street food and cute sit-down options. It helps that I've basically stayed within Condesa, Roma and Polanco. But my solo-ness has definitely hindered my efforts to check out the myriad restaurants in the immediate area. Classes start tomorrow, so hopefully I'll make myself some amiguitos and maybe have a few more food breakthroughs.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

I whipped out my iPhone a few seconds too late to catch this, but I was struck by the scene and how typically Mexican it was: a vendedor selling nuts or something and an acordeonista crossing paths and chatting, perhaps checking in re: how business had been that afternoon.

And me? I was sitting outside Frutos Prohibidos, enjoying a freshly squeezed orange juice on a cool -- but not cold -- day, eavesdropping. Oh, and the juice was about $1 (15 pesos). The U.S. economy may be as depressing as a Noah Baumbach film, but the dollar reached a record high against the peso this week (about 14.6, compared with the 11.2 or so when I was here in 2007).

Good news para mí, who spent $2.50 on toast, coffee and juice the other day. Although, to my utter shame, I did have some trouble with the money conversion and somehow thought my 1 peso tip was appropriate. My first, but not last, faux pas while here, I'm sure. I guess I was confusing dollars and pesos. Must go back to that little spot soon and leave the waitress a more appropriate propina.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

I'll no doubt be blogging a lot more frequently while I'm here, working and studying, in Mexico City. My instinct is to try to jot down everything I've done and have been thinking about, but instead, how about some vignettes? Crazy idea, no? Those will be coming, but for now, some links:

Photos will be in this new Flickr set (the one from my 2007 trip, with all 197 photos, is here). Tweets are over there on the right, as always. The lovely house I'm staying in for the next 9 weeks has an online presence aquí. Classes begin Monday at International House. And you can read some other people's thoughts about this interesting/crazy/chaotic/lovely city.