Thursday, April 29, 2010


Tigre Riverwalk
Originally uploaded by tjdee
I made my way to Tigre on the commuter train to check out what the Buenos Aires suburbs have to offer. Tigre is a popular day trip because it's reachable quickly (about 50 minutes on the direct train) and cheaply (about 35 cents for my one-way ticket) and because it's a jumping-off point to explore the river delta by boat. The town itself also offers a nice riverwalk area, a small theme park and a casino. At the casino, where I stopped before taking the pricier but cuter Tren de la Costa back toward Buenos Aires, I had a truly awkward conversation while ordering a coffee and pastry.

When I sat down and realized I had forced the woman to give me more change than I deserved because I didn't understand one word she had said right away (she asked if she could give me 3 "fichitas" because she didn't have "monedas"), I felt like a real tool. But then I chilled because, as I am getting better at remembering, language learning is all about making mistakes. If you're not screwing up every day, you're not doing it right.

And also, really Argentina, make more effing monedas so I don't have to have retarded conversations with service workers anymore. THANKS.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010


La Boca
Originally uploaded by tjdee
Going to La Boca is one of those things you have to do when in Buenos Aires. But it's not super convenient via public transportation. Fortunately, Boca along with a couple of other areas (Puerto Madero's Ecological Reserve, for example) is reachable via the Buenos Aires Bus, similar to the Mexico City Turibus I enjoyed last year. Yes, it's touristy and kinda cheesy. And no, it's not cute when porteños on the street point and giggle. But these buses provide a quick and affordable way for people who are here for only a short time to take the must-take photos and see the must-see sights -- and for those here for longer periods to revisit some of the areas they didn't get enough of. Even in your home city it would probably be fun to hop on one of these bad boys and take a spin.

Back to La Boca, it's definitely cute but it's also definitely not worth more than a relatively quick walk-through. I did, however, greatly enjoy going back to Puerto Madero. I don't care how different it is from the rest of the center of the city. Just like I love SF's South Beach, I love the modernity of Puerto Madero. And, really, for a city on the water you have so few opportunities to actually see any of it. For that alone, PM delivers.

Wednesday, April 21, 2010


Nerd
Originally uploaded by tjdee
There are some things you have to do while traveling, no matter how much you don't want to look like a typical tourist (aside: I saw a great saying here that read "no seas un turista, sino un viajero" or "don't be a tourist but rather a traveler"). But when you're in Buenos Aires you have to go to Recoleta Cemetery to see Evita's tomb. That said, you don't have to pose in front of it giving a thumb's up like a tool. I'm betting he was German. Just a guess.

Also, after this I went to the nearby Alvear Hotel for their afternoon tea service. It was off the chains. J and I spent about $20 each for champagne, tea, the traditional finger sandwiches, the three trays of tasty treats and a shared desert that we have wrapped to go so we could enjoy it on emptier stomachs. Don't even get me started on how fancy everything and everyone was! If you come here, go there. For reals.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010


Show at La Peña del Colorado
Originally uploaded by tjdee
We were not sure whether to hit up this peña, which required an entrada fee plus dinner, but both the food and the show wound up being quite good. And it's just a quick walk from the apartment. I'll definitely be back, hopefully after midnight, when people just hang out playing guitar and drinking mate. Viva la Argentina.

Saturday, April 10, 2010


Hola
Originally uploaded by tjdee
Working from Urban Station for the second time this afternoon. It's nice to get out of the b&b and get work done in a rad space with a killer view of all the chic folks walking around the Palermo Soho neighborhood.

This concept, a hybrid between the traditional internet cafe (locutorio) and the longer-term co-working spaces (check out areatres, also in this hood), is fantastic. You get consistent wifi, a secure location and even a coffee break! But you don't have to commit to a multi-month contract

In other Argentine news, I've been getting my fill of empanadas, pizza and gelato (oh, and a choripan). But once J gets here tomorrow, it's steak and wine time. Yes, bitches, it's on.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010


Ya Llegué
Originally uploaded by tjdee
Ten hours on a plane is a long time, ya'll. Después de 10 horas en la (segunda) avión y un total de 18 hours de viajar, estaba hecho polvo (una expresión que al propietaro del b&b le encantó cuando se lo dije) ayer cuando llegué en esta ciudad tan preciosa. But I only grabbed a quick siesta at Mansilla 3935 before checking out the neighborhood, including Las Heras Park, and fully scoping Alto Palermo, a shopping center I'm assuming will become my Reforma 222, the Mexico City center that became my go-to when I needed a quick meal, wanted to see a movie or just wanted to eavesdrop.